Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Past the Point of No Return

 

Last week an office wide email was issued indicating that the next staff meeting scheduled for Tuesday, October 12th would be taking place in Hambantota (a four hour drive away) and the two vehicles would depart Badulla at 7am on that day. Several days later, one of the regional supervisors comes to collect my passport information for ID purposes as we would be visiting the new port being built in the region - tres exciting.

Anywhoosie, the rest of the week passes without event and suddenly it’s Monday the day before the staff meeting and in passing the accounts manager reminds me to collect a travel advance. Travel advance??? Why? Oh we’re staying there and coming back Wednesday…oh ho, thanks for the notice. Imagine I had turned up with just my pen and paper – I’d have been quite distressed. Well at least now I knew.

After work, packed my overnight bag including linens, mosquito repellent and crashed early in preparation for the next day’s trip. I truly dislike the long drives – yes the scenery is gorgeous but it’s difficult to appreciate as we navigate dizzying turn at break neck speeds – apparently all Sri Lanka drivers are at all times on the most important mission of life.

We made several stops on the way to Hambantota – in addition to a staff meeting it was also kind of a study trip so we visited several Vocational Training  centres and were even given a presentation re: the centre’s performance at on location (I’d give you a summary if I had a clue as to what was being said – but given that everyone was smiling I’ll go out on a limb and say that it was all good Thumbs up). The staff meeting would go similarly where I sat for 2 hours testing my limited Sinhala and the limits of my patience as plans were made for the last quarter of the year.

On this day we would visit the the construction site of the new harbour presently being built in Hambantota. it is the largest of it’s type in the southern region of the country and will when complete be able to accommodate international shipping containers of any size.

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In the evening, after ordering dinner at the hotel we headed to Katuragama – one of the most sacred temples in the country. It features not only a Buddhist temple or Kovil, but also a Hindu temple and a Mosque.

 

 

Day II – The return to Badulla. The previous night I had enjoyed my first hot shower in two months and rose early this morning to do likewise. In the packing for this trip there was no talk of anything but a staff meeting so I packed a 2nd undershirt for my black ensemble (as pictured above) and on my feet I was wearing my flat sandals.

After settling the bills, around 8am we boarded the two vehicles and set off. After approximately one hour we pulled into a natural reserve…I figured we’d see some cute animals, take a couple pictures and it’d be a great story to write home. Oooh, I got a story to write about indeed but not the one I thought it’d be (although there were some cute animals involved).

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I call your attention to what I indicated I was wearing in preparation for the next part of this tale. In addition to the cute monkeys there was a Kovil at this location on top of a hill. My supervisor explained to me that most Kovils are built atop hills because of how calming that location is and how you can forget your worries there and focus on worship.

The hill was actually more of a gentle slope and it was actually not that big a deal and the view was indeed breathtaking. So perhaps I’d begun to worry prematurely.

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Now if only the story had ended there…if only the hiking had ended there because as we came down the other side of the hill where the Kovil was located someone pointed to another in the distance. Also we had scaled the rock face to get up when there stairs conveniently carved into the rock on the other side but oh wells.

We began our trek up the second hill in the sweltering Sri Lankan heat.

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While I suspect my friends at the No Plans Plan may have enjoyed the allure of a surprise hike, I was slightly less than amused – though from the way in which I attacked the challenge that may not have been immediately evident.

It was only as the path narrowed and became less stable looking it occurred to me that it was all fun and games going up, I could brute force my way up but I’d eventually have to come back down…whoops. I was at this point long past the point of no return. A location I’ve recently heard described as beyond where Jesus lost his sandals. Whichever terminology you use I was way off the ground and there was no convenient elevator for the way back down. 

Once at the summit, it was undeniable the beauty of the surrounding vista.

 DSC04368At that altitude, the view is amazing and the breeze almost makes you forget all the work it took to get to where you are. The breeze also has a tendency to move anything not bolted down so I’m holding on tightly to the rail.

As we prepared to descend everyone removed their shoes so they could negotiate the rocks on the way back down (to be fair no one was actually prepared for a hike) except that I never go barefoot…it hurts Sad smile so there I was preparing for the descent in my sandals. My sandals that almost caused me to slide almost immediately as I started heading back down and all I could think was “Please don’t pop, please, please, please don’t pop!”

Perhaps, I should explain the story of these sandals. They are the flattest shoes I have ever owned and when I purchased them it prompted my mom and best friend to consider taking out a full page ad. I am vertically challenged and despise flat shoes with every fibre of my being but these are the shoes that I wear to work every day. I brought work shoes with me but a) I am not promising anyone to walk twenty minutes to work up hill and through the market in heels and b) no one else wears shoes to work as in everyone else is wearing rubber slippers so I’m blending.

So I start to descend and as my slippers betray me almost immediately one of my co-workers says “Your slippers…not fit”. The very Western part of me wanted to retort “No shock!” but rather I let it pass with uncomfortable laughter and began to feel my way down the hill.

As I fumbled my way down with only a fraction of the confidence that had made me third to the summit I thought only of ensuring that my sandals didn’t pop. Every step taken carefully calculated…yes avoiding death was considered as well but I have another 8 1/2 months left I really need my shoes to survive.

I made it down in one piece eventually and even better news so did my shoes Open-mouthed smile. This was my first official sight seeing since having gotten to Badulla in August so it was a welcomed outing though a touch of warning would have been greatly appreciated.

Best

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Working 9 to 5

Have you missed me? It's been a while since my last blog post but as promised here's my blog post about my work. I've been trying to come up with thesis ideas in the weeks since I last posted a la Beautiful Mind (before you realise he's schizophrenic) so hopefully news on thesis shortly.

I am on placement with WUSC-Sri Lanka (duh?) and I'm based in the Badulla office which is located in the Southern region of the country and responsible for programming in not only Badulla but also the surrounding districts.

My official job title is Junior Program Officer - Micro-credit and Employment Services and as part of my work here I'll be working in Badulla, Hambantota, Moneragala and Matara.

A primary focus of WUSC's work here is the empowerment of women and marginalised youth thus these are the key target groups for all the developmental efforts here in country which includes the provision of Vocational Training and micro-credit. Presently there is a shift towards building the capacity of the local partners and less focus on direct implementation by WUSC.

As part of the capacity building efforts, the first task which I am working on is the design of a Monitoring and Evaluation (M&E) system for micro-credit organisations. The system will hopefully address the deficits in reporting which presently exist as well as allow these organisations to track their performance and improve their sustainability.

Right now I'm working on visiting these organisations and assessing their present M&E structures. This part has been a bit challenging given the language barrier but I am trying. I have managed to pick up a little Sinhala. So far most of my vocabulary is limited to issues of microcredit or buying vegetables in the market and while I know how to ask the questions - understanding the responses is a different issue.

During the course of the year I will also be working with micro-credit partners to expand the range of service currently provided to clients; Vocational Training partners to develop or strengthen production units, and the Regional Employment Strategy for the South.

So that's a brief over view of what I'm doing here for the next 9 months - time is flying quickly lol. And it shouldn't be so long before my next update...


Best

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Hot Food and Iced Tea

I'm a thinker. I like to theorise. After my first year in Canada I presented my hypothesis on Public Displays of Affection (PDAs) and how they are affected by the prevailing climate.

For those of you not familiar with this piece of research the theory states that PDAs are more socially accepted in cold countries as a function of the human need for body heat during the winter months. This is why one sees more couples "hugging up" in Canada than one would find in Barbados i.e. Barbados is too hot for that madness. [You may cite this study as Lubin, 2008]

I'd now like to present the preliminary findings of my time here in Sri Lanka thus far.

Hypothesis A: Hot Food and Iced Tea
I drink juice. I'm not a soda person in fact I have never really acquired a taste for it. I'm a big fan of juice and since my migration to Canada I have become a huge fan of iced tea which is usually my beverage of choice when out for dinner but I haven't had iced tea here in Sri Lanka. Only hot tea!

In Sri Lanka there is morning tea which is usually served around 10.30/11 and an afternoon tea around 2.30. Initially, I assumed this to be remnants of a colonial history and well Ceylon is the home of tea but further investigation revealed a more interesting source of this Sri Lankan affinity for hot tea.

"Come and eat while the food is hot" OR "At least have a cup of hot tea to break the air." We've all heard these admonitions, the latter especially if you grew up in the Caribbean (it's a mantra for older people). Sri Lanka however seems to have a different take on the matter of consuming hot food.

When I say a different take I mean what I can only term as an aversion to the idea. I have yet to have a hot meal other than what I have prepared on my modest stove at home. I recently spent the past week in Matara with a host family and was called each day to meals just as they were ready but they were always cold. I also visited a buffet with my supervisor and was shocked to see fans positioned directly over the food (which I assume was to chase flies) but served also to ensure that the food was room temperature at best.

I was thus led to the conclusion that given that meals apparently are never consumed hot, Sri Lankans consume multiple cups of hot tea daily to "break the air".

Hypothesis B: Flies and Spice
As noted in an earlier edition of this blog, on occasion one's meal may be thronged by flies. I have noticed however a reduction in my level of annoyance by their presence. Indeed I still have not completely over come my disdain for the creatures but have reached an uneasy tolerance for them.

I have found that one is less disgusted when one believes that it is not a fly but indeed black pepper in the food. And the movement of that piece of spice as you stretch your hand towards the food is the function only of a perfectly timed gust of wind.

Next week I'll be giving you a taste of my real research and work in Sri Lanka so stay tuned.

Best

Thursday, August 26, 2010

One Month Down...

Today marks exactly four weeks since I've been here in Sri Lanka and there is something important I need to get off my chest. Not that this has only been on my mind for the past four weeks but I'm just about ready to explode now...

I think about you all the time, people say that it'll just happen when the time is right but I can't get you out of my mind.

I wish I could forget you, I wish I could just let this year happen but you haunt my every waking moment and it's only been four weeks. How much of my mind will you have consumed in four months time? Why can't you leave me alone? Why must you torment me so?

I see you everywhere. At times I swear I hear you calling my name. And your name...Your name comes whispering in the breeze; it resounds in my head, echoes on my lips, colours my dreams, holds my breath...takes me away from the here and now.

I long to find you, to know you, to have and hold you...but alas so far you are but a distant dream. A relentless fantasy

"I think I have a problem, I think I think too much" - truer words have ne'er been spoken when it comes to me and you. Perhaps if I just let it be you'd come to me, but I can't let it go. Place this in the hands of fate? Wishing for a fortunate happenstance to send you in my direction - I am the craftsman of my own fate (or so I've been told) - does that not apply to this too?

Oh, but to say your name and make it real - this thing that escapes me and simultaneously bewitches. To speak your name without fear - to know what I know, to share in your secrets and make them my own. Spending time with you is a pleasure I look forward but cannot know...not now! Not yet! I have to give it time.

And yet still I yearn to know you, to understand you, to unravel your mysteries and make them known...

Thesis I will find you! But for now please leave me alone.